St. Moritz (photo 1) in Engadine in the canton of Graubünden is 2-1/2 hours southeast of Zürich. It has a reputation of being a playground for the rich and famous. For the ‘1 percent’, it’s just 8-min drive after landing in a private jet in nearby Samedan Airport. St. Moritz has several luxury hotels including Badrutt’s Palace Hotel and the iconic Kulm Hotel (photo 2). At an elevation of 1,800m it has extensive ski runs. Its sizeable lake freezes in winter hosting a myriad of events - ice skating, snow Polo and even cricket. It gets 300 days of sunshine every year (note the sun on its logo).
But St. Moritz is also where winter tourism started in Switzerland. It was just a summer mineral spa town until September 1864 whenCaspar Badrutt of the Kulm Hotel made a wager with four British guests to return in winter. If the village was not to their liking, then he would reimburse their travel costs. Not only did they come back year after year but they brought their wealthy, royal and even celebrity friends. But apart from snowy walks, there wasn’t much to do. Bored Englishmen adapted a goods delivery sled and went careening down narrow and twisting roads in the village. A more steerable device was adapted and became the early luge/sled and bobsled. As sledding became more popular increasing the incidence of collisions with pedestrians, a purpose-built half-pipe track was built. This track later became the model for the Cresta Run (photo 3) (see separate article) built in 1884.
The importance of St. Moritz as the birthplace of winter tourism and sports in Switzerland is list of firsts:
-first Curling tournament in 1880
-first European Ice-Skating Championships in 1882
-first Bob run and bob race in 1890
-first Ski school in Switzerland in 1929
St. Moritz also hosted the Winter Olympics not once but twice - in 1928 and 1948.
Driving to St. Moritz in deep winter is a hairy prospect which I don’t recommend. Even the Swiss abandon their cars in snowy conditions and take the train. But the UNESCO listed Rhaetian Railway (RhB) is not just any railway (photo 4). It has the only steam snow plow engine still in operation (photo 5). At 63.5 metric tons, it could even carve its way through an avalanche. The RhB winds itself through the Albula Pass (photo 6), a series of dramatic hairpin bends, spiral tunnels and dizzying viaducts in a frozen wonderland. It is one of the most beautiful and breathtaking railway lines in Europe.
I don’t ski anymore. But my husband and son do so I took the Chantarella/ Corviglia funiculaire up with them and get off at the first stop Chantarella (elevation 2,010m). They continue up to Piz Nair (elevation 3,056m) and ski down. I walk back down to the village. I love the crunching of my snow boots on overnight pisted paths. I love the smell of pine and crisp cold air on my face. The path down has the most stunning views of the snowbound village below (video 1). It’s my winter wonderland!
I sled (photo 7). It requires less skill than skiing. I find that there’s an almost childlike joy in sledding! My son and I were recommended to sled in Muottas Muragl but warned that it was an advance run. My son and I just managed to make it down with some pretty hairy corners. But there were people who struggled and were entangled in the safety netting. We decided against a second run. My favourite sled run is still the 6km run in Bergün (see article), a 45min train ride away.
I ice skate or I try! I’m more Bambi on Ice rather than Disney on Ice but I enjoy it when the rink is not too crowded. Before I moved to Switzerland, I’ve only ever skated inside shopping centers. Ice skating al fresco on the frozen St. Moritz Lake is the real thing. But for even more stunning views, there is a natural outdoor ice rink called Chesa al Parc next to the Kulm Hotel (video 2).
The highlight of my stay in St. Moritz has to be the horse-drawn sleigh ride to Val Roseg (photo 8). We sat on fur-lined open carriages (photo 9), wrapped up in sheepskin and serenaded by the jingling of the horses’ bells. The ride through 7km of frozen forest with sublime views of the Bernina Mountain and Roseg Glacier (photo 10) is simply magical. We arrived cold at the Hotel Roseg where a dessert buffet with hot chocolate and coffee was waiting. Bliss.
Comments